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Our Deck View from the Double-Wide |
What could
be prettier than tasting America’s finest wines in their native region with
friends? Doing so a week before the
harvest (or “the crush” as some call it), when the vines are loaded with the
sweet red berries that will become some of the world’s premier wines over the
next few months. I got to do just that
this past weekend at a variety of spots in Napa, Sonoma, and Mendocino counties
in northern California.
Our trip
began early Thursday morning. We arrived
at SFO just in time for lunch, and as we headed north toward winedom, we
stopped at Fish in Sausolito for a bite.
Fish is an organic seafood (DUH!) restaurant focusing on sustainable
fishing practices. The setting is picnic
table casual, but with the patio overlooking the bay, who cares?!
From there,
it was north to Caymus Winery for our first formal tasting. It was more entertaining than educational,
and the wines did not compel any in our group of four to make a purchase. Of course, there was plenty of profit for
them in the $30 (each!) tasting fee.
From there, we headed to Healdsburg and Mazzocco Winery, not for the
tasting, yet, but because their guest house was our accommodation for the
extended long weekend.
“Guest
House” is their euphemism for what we in the south would call a
double-wide. No kidding. Granted, the setting was beautiful, with the
winery on one side, and vineyards & a runway on the other. Thankfully, the runway was the Healdsburg regional
landing strip about 200 yards away and only had to handle about four small
plane take-offs and landings each day.
The deck affixed to the double-wide was great – long and wide, with a
panoramic view of the Mazzocco grape fields and said runway. They did a nice job with floral plantings
around the double-wide, and on one end we had a bocce court and a horseshoe
pit. But it’s still a double-wide. To their credit, the nightly rate for four of
us in the very large double-wide (with kitchen, 3 bedrooms and 2 baths) was a
fraction of what a pair of hotel rooms in the region would have been. And the scenery (looking away from the
double-wide) was great. Added
bonus: We had two bottles of Mazzocco’s
reserve wines awaiting us when we arrived.
Thursday’s
dinner was at The Farmhouse, a small restaurant attached to an ultra-lux inn in
Forestville. The food and service were
predictably excellent and predictably expensive. Then it was back the dark winding road to the
double-wide.
Per a
recommendation from one of our hosts at Mazzocco, Friday breakfast was at
Costeaux Bakery in downtown Healdsburg.
The omelets and coffee were great.
Thankfully, it was pretty early in the morning, so the bakery case
stocked with sweet pastries and tartlets was easier to resist.
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Stacks of Barrels at Cakebread |
Our first
stop after breakfast was a tour and tasting at Cakebread Cellars in Rutheford. This was an hour walk-and-talk through their
vineyards and winery, followed by a half-hour tasting of several of their
products that are not widely distributed (if at all). Our guide, Summer, was interesting and
entertaining, and she had the product in the tasting room to back up the
typically over-descriptive wine-speak.
“Heavy on the nose.”
“Fruit-forward.” “Hits the middle
of the palate.” Shut up already! Do I like it or not? Interesting bit of trivia: Cakebread is a family name, and the founder
used to run a garage in Oakland.
From
Cakebread, it was off to Yountville (“YONT-ville”) and lunch at Bouchon. Bouchon is the little sister of the famed
French Laundry, so we decided to call it “The Laundrette”. They serve French fare at French prices with
French service (respectively, excellent, high, and slow by American standards).
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Quixote Winery by Hundertwasser |
Our
afternoon tour-n-taste was at Quixote Winery.
Quixote is a boutique winemaker with very limited distribution. They are as famous for their Hundertwasser-designed
structure as they are for their superb screw-cap wines. Even the wine barrels are fun here, with
colorfully striped steel bands binding the oak planks into place.
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Colorful Barrels at Quixote |
On our drive
back to the double-wide, we stopped at Sunshine Foods in St. Helena and picked
up stuff for a simple, quiet dinner at “home”.
Sunshine is proud of their products (expensive!), but the quality of
their organic locally-sourced foods is indisputable. Paired with some excellent Mazzocco reds, our
double-wide dinner was delightful.
Tomorrow is
Saturday, our planned no-plans day…